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--------------------------- AXEMANSHIP -------------------------- A monthly newsletter for guitarists ----------------------------------------------------------------- Vol. 1 No. 5 June 2005 ----------------------------------------------------------------- Tom Serb, editor editor@noteboat.com
This newsletter is distributed by subscription only. If you want to unsubscribe, instructions can be found at the end of the newsletter. ----------------------------------------------------------------- IN THIS ISSUE: > Tips and Tricks: cleaning guitars, awkward fingerings, musical forms, cadences, being prepared > Product review: Blues Licks Encyclopedia > Music News > Question of the month ----------------------------------------------------------------- TIPS AND TRICKS: CLEANING GUITARS ----------------------------------------------------------------- Sooner or later, every guitar gets a bit grungy. Assorted dirt, dust, and oils from your fingers build up. Before you start scrubbing away at the grime, you should figure out how your guitar was finished. Many guitars have finishes that are delicate, and the particles of dirt can be pretty abrasive against fine finishes. If your guitar is more than 60 years old, it’s worth the trip to take it to a luthier for cleaning advice. Start by using a clean, soft rag. I bought a few yards of flannel at a fabric store for about $4, and that’s enough for me to cut into several hundred cleaning pads. Fold the rag into a square that you can easily grip, and use a circular ‘lifting’ motion to polish the guitar. The idea is to transfer the dirt to the pad, not to just move it around the surface. Sometimes the dirt sticks pretty well to the guitar, and you need to soften it up a bit. Moisture helps, but you don’t want to be spritzing away at the guitar with water. I breathe on the surface – think of fogging a mirror with your breath – and that’s sometimes enough. To move up a step, you’ll want to consider solvents to cut through the oils that hold the dirt on the surface. One of the best solvents for guitars is naphtha (lighter fluid). Put a few drops on your cleaning rag, and it’ll help cut through the oil. Naphtha will leave a little bit of a haze on your guitar, so follow up with a clean, dry rag. Commercial polishes and cleaners for guitars are sold at most music stores. These contain a fine abrasive to help rub away the dirt, so don’t overdo their use – but they can remove a bit more than lighter fluid alone will. Fretboards need special attention when cleaning. Because you’re constantly putting your fingertips on the fretboard, it collects a great deal of dirt. Here’s one area where the cleaning techniques vary a great deal with the instrument – if you have a maple fretboard, it’s been sealed with a clear finish. Don’t use abrasives like steel wool or guitar polish, because you’ll cut right through the finish coating – only use elbow grease, with a little lighter fluid if you really need it. Other fretboards, like rosewood or ebony, can be cleaned with a plastic scraper (I’ve used the edge of a pick in a pinch) or with steel wool. If you go the steel wool route, use only 0000 or finer. Coarser wools can damage the fretboard surface. Some folks swear by lemon oil or other finishing touches – I’ve even heard of people using olive oil to get a finishing polish on their guitar. Many modern guitar finishes simply don’t need it, but if it makes you feel good there’s ----------------------------------------------------------------- TIPS AND TRICKS: AWKWARD FINGERINGS ----------------------------------------------------------------- Every now and then we all run into a chord or phrase that makes us sit back and say “but my hand won’t DO that!”. Whenever I run into something like that, I think about Django Reinhardt. With his fretting hand horribly burned in a fire, he had to re-learn the guitar from the beginning – and in doing so, re-invented jazz guitar. If he could do what he did with only two working fingers, I can manage to rise to the challenge. When your fretting hand won’t do what it needs to, the solution lies in breaking the problem down to basic mechanics. To begin with, you need to place your fingers where they need to land, and get good tone out of all the strings. Common stumbling points here are dead strings, buzzing, bent strings, and problems with reach. Dead strings can be caused by not having enough arch to one or more fingers, or by insufficient pressure -especially on barred strings. Remember that the guitar is in three dimensions, and you can adjust any or all of them: you can move the neck up or down, you can move the neck towards or away from your body, and you can angle the face of the fretboard. Make small adjustments to each of these in turn, paying attention to two things: how does the movement affect your finger arch, and how does it affect the line of your fretting hand wrist. You may find that you can play a section if you anticipate it, and change your approach to the guitar during that one phrase or chord change. Buzzing is usually caused by insufficient pressure, and that in turn can have two causes: weakness in the finger/hand/wrist muscles, or a bad angle of attack on the strings. Notice which finger is the culprit, and do some exercises. If the problem is your little finger, and the motion calls for it to play a note, slide up, and play another note with the same finger, develop an exercise that works that specific motion, like this (played entirely with fingers 3-4, the ‘s’ indicates a slide of position; play on all pairs of strings): -----5-6-s7-6----------7-8-s9-8-----------9-10-s11-10- -5-6----------7-6-s7-8----------9-8-s9-10------------- If the problem is bad angle of attack, use the method described for poor arch. There’s probably a better guitar position that will make it easier to play. Bent string issues are caused by a bad angle of attack. If your neck is at too low an angle, you may find some fretting fingers are pushing up on the strings as you fret (in very rare cases, they may be pulling down on the strings, but the root cause is the same – bad attack angle). Adjust the guitar angles until your fingertips are coming straight down. Problems with reach can only be solved by slowly stretching the ligaments of the fingers, although the guitar position plays an important role here, too. If you need more reach between your first and fourth fingers, spread them apart as far as you can in the air, then place the fingertips on a table while in that position. Using your free hand, slowly move one of them out from the other – don’t do this to the point of pain, just a gentle stretch. Hold it for a few seconds, then relax. Try it again a few minutes later. As each day goes by, you might add repetitions to this exercise, and over time you’ll find you have more reach. Ok, so you’re reached the point where you can now finger that awkward chord or stretch between notes by itself – but you still need to do it in context to make it musical. Now you need to pay attention to how your fingers enter and leave this odd shape. Make the motion required very slowly, paying attention to the way your fretting hand is required to move. You’ll want to look for a few things: - if one finger stays on the same string, don’t lift it during the change. If it needs to move to a new fret, slide it. If you don’t want a slide sound, ease up on the pressure, but keep the finger on the string. - if two fingers move in the same relation to each other, like your second and third fingers do when moving from an open C chord to an open F, move them as a ‘block’. Patient practice can make this second nature, and it cuts finger placement time in half, since you’re placing one ‘block’ instead of two finger tips. - look at your wrist motion. Your wrist often rotates during a change, and you probably don’t even think about it... watch your wrist move during the change from open D major to open G7 and you’ll see what I mean. Now look at how your wrist NEEDS to move during the trouble change, and anticipate the motion – start it early. This might feel strange, and it might give you new dead string issues to deal with, but you already know how to overcome those. Any fractions of a second you can save during the change gives you that much more time to get it right! - get the weak spot first. Let’s say the trouble is going to a D7 chord with a fourth string F# bass, a ‘rootless’ voicing: 2 1 2 4 x x You’re going to need to get that F# planted sooner or later to do that right, so you might as well get it first – after all, the other fingers are ‘easy’, so you’ll be able to train them quicker. - if all else fails, find a ‘cheat’. The goal is to play the required notes at the right time, and most chords/phrases can be done in more than one place. If you’re struggling with a C7+ fingering like this: 4 1 3 2 x x Try finding another position for the same voicing, like these: x x 9 x 5 13 8 10 7 13 x 12 You might also need to adjust the position of the chords/phrases right before and after the awkward one, but that’s ok – and as a bonus, you’ll become a lot more aware of where all those possibilities lie on the neck! ----------------------------------------------------------------- TIPS AND TRICKS: MUSICAL FORM ----------------------------------------------------------------- When you’re working at building solos, it helps to have an understanding of how music is put together on a structural level. That gives you a ‘big picture’ frame to work in. Let’s say you’ve come up with an interesting riff to begin your solo; this is your theme, called a ‘statement’. We’ll call it ‘A’. If you just play the riff over and over, you’ve built a form with the pattern AAAA. That’s called a strophic form; it’s simple – but it’s boring. A good solo not only has unity – it hangs well together as a piece – it also has variety. You can alter your riff, coming up with a ‘variation’ – one that uses slightly different notes, the same notes with a different rhythm, or the same notes transposed to a new key. That would be called A1; the next variation would be A2, then A3, and so on. Now you’ve got a little more material to play around with, and you can make a few different patterns, like: A-A1-A2-A3... or A-A1-A-A2-A-A3... This form is called ‘theme and variation’. Not so boring, but it can get old if you carry it on for long periods of time. Many good solos carry this a step further, with a section of contrast. You might begin your solo in the key of C, but move to G – continuing in G for a while, you then move back to C for the finish. The contrasting section is ‘B’, and your new form is A-B or A-B-A; each of these sections can have a theme and variation structure, so your whole result might look something like: A-A1-A2-A-B-B1-B2-B-A It actually works best if there are some similarities between the A and B sections – similar rhythms, or note patterns. That helps to give your whole solo a sense of unity in spite of the contrast. If you really want to go farther afield during your solo, you might try something called the ‘arch form’, A-B-C-B-A. In this form, the C section is getting pretty remote from your original theme, but the B sections provide the connection. You might notice that these musical forms look similar to song structures: A-B = verse-chorus; A-B-C = verse/pre-chorus/chorus. That’s not a coincidence; we all have certain gut expectations of what a musical experience will be like, conditioned by all the music we’ve heard before... if your solos conform to this pattern, they’ll seem to have a better ‘fit’ to the song. ----------------------------------------------------------------- TIPS AND TRICKS: CADENCES ----------------------------------------------------------------- Cadences are essential parts of chord progressions – they’re what brings the whole idea to a close. A cadence is a movement of two (or more) chords that creates a sense of finality to a piece, section, movement, or phrase. They come in a lot of different flavors... You’ll sometimes hear talk of a ‘perfect’ cadence. That’s got a very specific meaning in music theory: it’s a movement from a dominant (V) or subdominant (IV) chord to a tonic (I), where the final chord has roots in both the bottom and top voices. On the guitar, you only find a couple of ways to get the last chord in a perfect cadence – both are from the E form barre (C is shown): 8-8 8-8 9-9 10-10 10-x 8-x Besides being perfect or imperfect, cadences can be authentic – moving from down a fifth from V to I; plagal – moving down a fourth from IV to I; or mixed – using both V and IV, as in IV-V-I or IV-I-V-I. Sometimes the final chord isn’t the tonic, and there are names for those cadences too. A half cadence ends on the V or IV, so an authentic half cadence is ii-V, II-V, or iii-IV (moving down a fifth); a plagal half cadence is I-V, or i-V (moving down a fourth). One other type of cadence worth noting uses chord substitutions. As you might know, chords can be substituted for each other... that’s usually done when the original chord and the substitution share two notes. In other words, good substitutes for C major (C-E-G) might be Em (E-G-B) or Am (A-C-E). If you substitute for the tonic chord, you might end up with V-iii or V-vi; these are called deceptive cadences. ----------------------------------------------------------------- TIPS AND TRICKS: BEING PREPARED ----------------------------------------------------------------- You’ve heard it a thousand times: succeeding in the music business is all about luck. Well, that’s true – the people who make it get lucky. There were a lot of bar bands in Germany in 1959, but only one became the Beatles. But in the long run, luck gets distributed pretty evenly; everyone has chance meetings with influential strangers, performances where somebody who’s SOMEbody is in the audience, opportunities to take new paths with your music that might lead somewhere. You may not be the next George Harrison, but you get chances every day that you probably overlook. The hard part about opportunity is that it comes in disguise. You really never know how chance will present itself, and it’s almost always in a series of steps: Brian Epstein sees the Beatles playing at the Cavern in 1961. He’s not a famous rock manager; he owns a local record store. He convinces them to give him a chance as manager – and the unknown record merchant begins by changing all the things he doesn’t like about them: their appearance, their stage personalities, etc. He gets them presented to a record company, Decca. They get turned down. A year or so goes by before he gets their music in front of George Martin. Or take Stevie Ray Vaughan, who on Guitar Players’ reader poll as best blues guitarist for nine years in a row. He got a record contract because of a demo he made using studio time donated by Jackson Browne. He met Browne because of his performance at the Montreaux Jazz Festival in 1982. He got that performance because he’d played a private party for the Rolling Stones. He played that party because they’d seen a video of him performing at the Austin Blues Festival. So the Beatles didn’t get discovered – they met a record store owner. Stevie Ray didn’t get discovered – somebody filmed a gig he did, and the tape got passed around. Most successful performers will have a similar history, because that’s the way things really work. One of my favorite sayings is: Chance favors the prepared. I believe you really can prepare yourself to be favored by chance – you just have to be aware of how it works. 1. You don’t know the person who will discover you, and you probably can’t get to know them on your terms. They’ll find you through someone else – and you have no way of knowing who that might be... a fan with a video camera? A record store owner? Your cousin’s classmate’s mother’s new boyfriend? Since you don’t know who will provide your ticket to success, you need to assume that everyone might. That means treating everyone with some respect and appreciation, and playing your heart out no matter who, or how small, your audience may be. 2. You don’t know what the person who will discover you wants, so be open to change. The Beatles didn’t start out as peppy young men in matching suits; they were like every other bar band. If they’d rejected suggestion (after all, what does a record store owner know about how bands should look?), you would never have heard of them. Don’t dismiss criticism or suggestions that run counter to your idea of what you should be like. I’m not suggesting you blindly follow every idea thrown at you, but consider if a suggestion is worth taking a chance, maybe on a trial basis. 3. When you really come down to it, it’s a numbers game. There are six billion people in the world, and maybe 6,000 of them have the power to ‘discover’ you. That’s a one-in-a-million shot. Remember that discoveries happen second or third (or fourth or fifth) hand – it’s not the person who sees you who will catapult you to fame... it’s someone they know. You won’t be able to play in front of a million different people to have even odds of a ‘star maker’ catching your act. But if each of those 6,000 star makers knows 10 people well... and they each know 10 people well... and THEY each know 10 people well... now we’re talking bout one-in-a-thousand. Can you play in front of 1,000 different people this year, and make each performance stellar? Realistically, yes. That’s one open mike night a week in front of an audience of 20. But in order for the ‘buzz’ to work its way up to the star-maker, that performance has to be strong enough to be talked about. Play it like it’s Woodstock, and you’re following the Who. Even if the crowd consists of only a bored bartender, maybe she dates a guy who lays floor tile with the brother of a friend of a roadie for a band that will open for Coldplay. If you snap her out of her ennui so she’ll talk about you, you’re one step closer to the big time. That’s the way people get discovered. ----------------------------------------------------------------- PRODUCT REVIEW: BLUES LICKS ENCYCLOPEDIA ----------------------------------------------------------------- This is the second National Guitar Workshop book I’ve bought, and the second one I’ve liked. The opening pages give you a review of basics – how to read tab, a couple pages of technique, scale patterns, and the I-IV-V progression. That’s followed by 80+ pages of riffs in different blues styles: delta, Chicago, Texas, rock, country, swing/jazz, and minor blues, plus some riffs for slide guitar. Each section begins with a typical chord progression, a list of the scales most commonly used, a few of the major artists in the style, and a list of popular tunes in the genre. The riff section in each style begins with a page of intros and turnarounds typical of the style, followed by riffs in the style of key players ranging from Hendrix to Setzer, Santana to the Kings (Albert, B.B. and Freddie). Riffs are organized by the progression chord – a page of licks for the I chord, a page for the IV chord. The patterns themselves range from trite clich?©s to some interesting riffs. The real value from the book won’t come from dropping these lines into your solos, but from taking apart why the riffs work over certain chords – what note does it start on, where does it end, how does it get there. The only two faults that I find with this book: first, there aren’t many riffs presented over the V chord. In the rock blues section you get 20 riffs for the I chord, 15 for the IV chord, but only 5 for the V. Riffs for I and IV run two bars each, with V riffs being a single bar. In a 12-bar progression, you’ll have those chords in a ratio of 8:3:1 or 7:3:2, depending on whether or not you use a turnaround. The riffs in the book aren’t in quite that ratio, so it’s a little heavy on IV, and a touch light on V. Second is that riffs presented ‘in the style of’ for various artists will be either riffs on I OR riffs on IV and V. You get I chord riffs for Santana; you get IV and V for Page. Still, it’s a convenient starting point for exploration. The cover says over 300 guitar riffs. The book contains 296 in the main sections, so they must be counting the technique illustrations as riffs too. Published by Alfred, this is available with or without a CD. I picked up the version without, so I can’t comment on the recording, but I find the text version a pretty decent value. ----------------------------------------------------------------- QUESTION OF THE MONTH: CHANGING STRING GAUGES ----------------------------------------------------------------- Q: My guitar came with medium gauge (.011-.050) strings, but I’m finding it hard to play. Will changing to light gauge strings help? A: String tension is a factor of several different things: the scale length, the composition of the strings, and the string gauge. The same gauge strings on a Fender will seem easier to play on a Gibson because of the scale length – the shorter the scale, the less tension required to get up to pitch. Different string compositions have slightly different mass. A lighter mass means less string tension, so 92/8 phosphor bronze strings will have more tension in the same gauge than 80/20 bronze strings. If you do decide to change string gauge, it may effect your setup. Thinner strings affect a guitar’s action in two ways: first, because thinner gauge strings have less tension, there’s less total force on the headstock. The guitar’s relief is set up for a specific amount of string tension, so thinner strings will lie closer to the frets. Second, the string slots in the nut and saddle might be badly cut, resulting in more of a ‘V’ shape slot than a ‘U’ shape. This can cause thinner gauge strings to come to rest lower in the slots, also lowering the action. In many cases, this will lead to fret buzz when you change string gauges. So yes, lighter gauge strings will make your guitar easier to play – but it may require a new setup after you change gauges, and in extreme cases the replacement of the nut and/or saddle. ----------------------------------------------------------------- MUSIC NEWS ----------------------------------------------------------------- Elvis Costello managed to tick off a bunch of his fans... his concert 25 May at the University of East Anglia conflicted with Liverpool’s soccer match against AC Milan. When the game ran long, he stayed backstage watching. After it was finally decided by penalty kicks, he finally appeared – but cut his set very short. Angry fans wanted their money back; Elvis told them they should have stayed at home reading their cookbooks. You’d think he would have been more charitable – after all, his team won. East 17 singer Brian Harvey is hospitalized in London after somehow being crushed by his Mercedes convertible. His manager is calling it a freak accident, and not a third suicide attempt, as some have suggested. The Greek Orthodox church wants Slipknot’s Athens show cancelled, on the grounds that the band is promoting Satanism. The Darkness has dumped bassist Frankie Poullain over musical differences. No replacement yet. Nine Inch Nails will headline at the Voodoo Music Festival in New Orleans in October. In the studio: The Vines, working on their third album; Hootie and the Blowfish, with their first album on their own label; Staind, with their fifth effort; Billy Corgan, working on songs for a documentary DVD; Roger Waters, with his opera Ca Ira, based on the French revolution On the road: Journey, with their 30th anniversary tour starting 26 June in Irvine CA; Babyface with Anita Barker, US tour starting 23 June in San Diego; John Legend, with his first US tour starting 10 June in Atlanta; the Rolling Stones, with a world tour starting in Atlanta in August. The Grateful Dead will release a concert video next month (the concert was 4 July 1989 in Buffalo NY) to celebrate 40 years since their founding. The Polar Music Prize has gone to Brazilian singer Gilberto Gil (who also happens to be the Culture Minister of Brazil) and German singer Dietrich Fisher-Dieskau. Last year’s winners were Hungarian composer Gyeorgy Ligetti and B.B. King. The Zooma tour, which was to feature Trey Anastasio and Ben Harper, has been cancelled due to poor ticket sales. Bob Geldof’s new idea, Live 8, will be presenting simultaneous free concerts on 2 July in Berlin, London, Paris, Philadelpia, and Rome to raise awareness about poverty. Headliners include Crosby Stills & Nash and Brian Wilson (Brandenburg Gate, Berlin), McCartney, REM, and U2 (Hyde Park, London), Bon Jovi, Dave Matthews, Maroon 5 and Stevie Wonder (Philadelphia Museum of Art), Duran Duran, Faith Hill, and Tim McGraw (Circus Maximus, Rome). Paris’ venue hasn’t been announced yet. Counting Crows will open the new House of Blues in Atlantic City on 8 July. Guitarist Paul Hinojos has left Sparta and rejoined Mars Volta. Guitarist Mark Weinberg has left Gratitude over ‘touring issues’; they’re not replacing him. Rest in Peace: the reaper spared the famous this month, with the exception of jazz singer Oscar Brown – but didn’t pass over some talented lesser-knowns like Welsh folk singer Siwsann George, film composer/pianist Linda Martinez, classical pianist Ruth Laredo, composer George Rochberg, and jazz trumpeter Benny Bailey. ----------------------------------------------------------------- Copyright ?© 2005, NoteBoat Inc. You may forward this newsletter to your friends, provided it is kept intact and forwarded in its entirety. The contents may not be displayed on any website or duplicated in print without written permission. AXEmanship is published monthly. Subscriptions to this newsletter are free. To subscribe, simply send an e-mail to axemanship-subscribe@noteboat.com To unsubscribe, send an e-mail to: axemanship-unsubscribe@noteboat.com ------------------------ editor@noteboat.com -------------------- http://www.noteboat.com (630)697-7229 Tom Serb, editor fax (630)910-4553 PO Box 6155 Woodridge IL 60517 USA ----------------- NoteBoat: Tools for Guitarists ----------------
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